Should I Stay or Should I Go?

That's a question for another day. In the meantime, Mr. Albarn looks damn good in his Kurt Cobain stripes, Persols, and varsity leather jacket.  Mos Def and former Clash members Mick Jones and Paul Simonon bring the funk...

Style is Not What You Are Wear: The (Lost) Art of Listening

"Someone who is secure enough to be very present when relating to another person is sexy. In other words, a good listener always lands who he wants." - Tom Ford
Learn to be a good listener.  Listening makes you mysterious, intriguing and ultimately, more attractive to both women and men.  You may even learn a thing or two...

Sping/Summer Essential: The Desert Boot

Two trends are dominating men's fashion this spring. The first is the near obsession with all things Americana-  and American workwear in particular. Brands like Levis, Woolrich, Gant, Pendleton and Red Wing Shoes are now staples at cutting-edge retailers like Barneys New York.  The second  is the reimagining of American preppy, emphasizing color and pattern with updated fits. Footwear-wise, designers and retailers are pushing canvas sneakers and boat shoes, and on the dressier side, suede bucks, saddle shoes and desert boots or chukkas.  If I had to choose between a suede buck, saddle shoe and desert boot, I'd go with the desert boot as they are more versatile and will probably have more staying power. Invented in 1950 by Nathan Clark, the desert boot was inspired by the crepe-soled, rough suede boots Officers in the British Eight Army had made in the Cairo Bazaar during World War II. 

There are a myriad of choices at a wide range of price points.  A few of my favorites:

Clarks Desert Boot $95
The original classic. 'Nuff said

John Varvatos Hipster Chukka $195
John Varvatos does men's shoes very well and this Chukka is no exception.  I dig the slightly burnished look and the tire tread sole will outlast a traditional crepe sole.

Cole Haan Jake $375
While not the classic suede desert boot, this is a beautifully made shoe from Cole, Rood & Haan (Cole Haan's heritage collection). The thick, deep blue-black leather looks like it will age wonderfully. 

Rub it Out

Paul and Jolie were up from L.A. over the weekend for Nancye's 40th at Town Hall on Saturday night.  I lobbied ms pix all week to allow me to attempt the Smoked Ribs with California Dry Rub recipe from Tyler Florence.  Got the sign-off Friday afternoon.  Hit Tower Market for Trumer, spices and 3 huge racks of baby back pork ribs. The prep was incredibly easy.  To achieve the proper heat and smoke, I placed the soaked apple wood chips in a large aluminum baking pan between the heat and the ribs.  With only the center burner on low, I was able to keep the temperature around 210 degrees.  Grill time was roughly 2 hours and 15 minutes.  Let 'em sit for 20 minutes under foil before serving.  Ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and the dry rub was spicy and tangy.  Paul liked the fact that the dry rub meant only 2 napkins instead of 10.  Vic, Suchi and Geck brought additional beer and bubbly.  Neighbors Julian and Alice dropped by late night to help us finish off the 3rd rack.  All and all, a successful meal.

Asset Management: Shaving

Face it: Shaving sucks.  It's time-consuming and rough on the mug.  Some guys are lucky enough to be able to grow respectable facial hair.  After 3 or 4 days, my stubble just looks silly. I've tried just about every shaving gel, lotion, foam, etc..., and they've all left something to be desired.  Until now. Tagging along with ms pix to Perch in Glen Park the other day, I noticed the Baxter of California skincare and shaving products.  Zoel, the owner, pronounced it the best shaving cream he had tried.  I have to agree.  Close and COMFORTABLE shave.  Something to do with the formula providing a barrier between face and razor.  At $16 (10 OZ) it's not cheap, but by no means outrageous. Plus it takes very little of the stuff to do the job.  Also iked the samples of face scrub, face wash, after-shave balm and skin lotion Zoel tossed in for good measure.  So while shaving still sucks, it's gotten measurably better. And hey, at least I don't have to wax...

Object of Affection: James Perse Standard T-Shirt

The only thing ironic about an ironic t-shirt is that a grown man would chose to wear one. You really want the first thing people know about you is that you provide mustache rides or that you had sex with their mom?  Running a close second in the race to offend are graphic tees featuring skulls, winged-beasts, and all things medieval.  Are you trying to scare me?
I got no qualms with understated designs like those done by Rogues Gallery  but the last thing I want is to make a statement with my undershirt.  For every day use, I prefer the James Perse Standard Crew Neck  - mostly because they fit me well.  Slightly fitted but not so tight that you can tell how much I bench press. Sleeves are just long enough.  The $45 price tag may seem high for a plain cotton tee, but they maintain their shape and color through repeated washings.  Alternative's Perfect Crew is another good choice.
So leave the clever tees to the kids at Urban Outfitters. I just hope they realize it's not cool to talk about someone's mom...

No Static At All

I've been honing in on a jacket for Geck (to replace the broken-down G-Star jacket I bequeathed him a few years ago) for the last several weeks.  Found a couple good candidates at Diesel and G-Star, but everything seemed a little too over-the-top for a guy who prefers T Rex to TV on the Radio.  Luckily, I was recently tipped of to UnionMade on Sanchez.  I have too many good things to say about this shop, but in short, it's my new favorite men's store in San Francisco. The very easy-going and extremely well-versed salesman, Jason hooked Tom up with the military/workman inspired "Cadet Jacket", a pair of J. Crew Vintage Slim Fit Selvedge Jeans (woven on 100 year-old looms), and a great button-down madras shirt.   The entire operation took about 30 minutes. Dined at Contigo ,off 24th to celebrate Geck's new duds.  And yeah, we sat at the bar...

Shoe Geekdom

This Episode from the blog "PUT this ON," is admittedly, pretty nerdy. But it contains some great tips for what to look for in a quality shoe, how to care for your shoes and even how to properly tie your laces. Shoe geeks unite!

Electronic Music For Grown-Ups

Since I'm going to be boring my friends raving about the forthcoming LCD album "This is Happening Now" for the foreseeable future, I figure I'd get an early start. LCD began streaming "Happening "from their site about two weeks ago. I've given it about ten listenings and it gets better each time. Just as tracks from 2007's "Sounds Of Silver" like "All My Friends" and "Someone Great" perfectly captured my state then, so it is now with "Happening" songs, "I Can Change" and "Dance Yourself Clean." Maybe it has something to due with the fact that, like LCD's front man James Murphy, I' m about to turn 40. These songs are about feeling old, cynical and frustrated by relationships. There also about friendship, sex, love and glorious indulgence. On "Dance Yourself Clean," Murphy sings, "If we wait until the weekend, we could miss the best things to do." Amen. Makes me want to see all my friends tonight...

The Return of Color/ Optimism?

Color is back big time in men's fashion this spring as evidenced by bold gingham-check shirts, ribbon belts, and colorful boat shoes. Seems to me, embracing color may not only be a sartorial positive, but signal a renewed sense of general optimism.

So here's my bold prediction: By mid-summer the economy will be in full recovery mode, people will be back to work, the Dow will break 13,000, and the World Cup will foster greater global cooperation and harmony.

Here's to a brighter, more colorful future...

Return to Exile

Exile on Main Street, to my ears the Stones' best album, will be reissued on May 10th and include 10 never-before-heard tracks. If you're not familiar with the legendary back story of the album, here's a condensed version:

In 1972, the Stones flee England for tax reasons (the British Government was threatening to seize their assets). The band picks as their exile a villa in the south of France called Nellcote, which also happened to be Gestapo Headquarters during World War II. The band records in the Villa's sweltering basement that was so humid their guitars refused to stay in tune. Keith Richards later says, "...down there, it was Dante's Inferno. It was like trying to makes a record in the Fuhrerbunker." Keith shoots heroin every day with a revolving parade of guests including Gram Parsons, William S. Burroughs and Terry Southern. There is growing friction between band members, especially Keith and Mick. Exile is released in May of 1972 to lukewarm critical reaction but is now considered the Stone's masterpiece. As the critic Robert Christgau wrote "it took me perhaps twenty-five listenings before I began to understand what the Stones were up to and I still haven't finished the job... Exile explores new depths of record-studio murk, burying Mick's voice under layers of cynicism, angst and ennui..."

Style-wise what can one say? I'll let these photos taken from here do the talking.

Flight of The Troubodour

There is a black and white photo of my father from the late 60's I love. Pan American Airlines 1st Officer Steve Meuris is striding across the tarmac somewhere in the Far East. He's wearing civvies: a fitted shirt and slacks (slight bell bottom) and ankle boots. On his shoulder is a well-worn leather duffel bag. Call me a luddite, but no way would Dad have looked as cool pulling along a roller bag. A gentleman carries his bag.

Flash forward forty years. I have a friend whose preference for the long-distance relationship and weekend trysts, earns him a lot of Southwest points. This friend, let's call him The Troubadour, needed a weekender duffel bag with some style.

I found a few nice offerings online from Patagonia and Marc Jacobs , but was looking for something more sophisticated. By accident, I came across Mulholland on Sutter St. The Boardroom Medium Hippo Duffel in grey flannel immediately caught my eye. Kim Kesser, Mulholland's incredibly knowledgeable salesperson gave me the run down on the San Francisco-based, family-run Company. Like all of Mulholland's bags, this elegant and utilatrian duffel is constructed to the highest quality standards and is backed by a lifetime guarantee. Best of all, the Hippo is currently half off (at the Store but not online). The Troubadour is now prepared to arrive in style...

Mulholland Boardroom Medium Hippo Duffel in Grey Flannel $260

Time Machine

Over dinner the other night, my buddy Vic promised to be my first client, once he's done with his current work assignment. Among other things, he's looking for a quality watch.
I believe every man should possess at least one good timepiece. My thought on watches is either wear a cheapy (a swatch or timex) or invest in a "real" timepiece. But at all costs, avoid a cheap watch pretending to look expensive.
I've always been a fan of dive watches for their aesthetics, functionality and versatility. Many of today's dive watches are understated enough to be worn to the office.
The things to look for in a dive watch (or any quality watch) are: (1) a Swiss automatic movement, (2) a scratch-proof, sapphire crystal glass, (3) a classic design and , (4) a price tag that doesn't require taking out a second mortgage. The Prometheus Ocean Diver meets all of these criteria. It features a Swiss ETA movement, sapphire crystal, a substantial (but not bulky) 44 mm case that sits well on the wrist, and a classic design reminiscent of the iconic 1960's Longines Super Compressor. Best of all, you all this watch for under $500.

Object of Affection: The Charvet Shirt

Founded in 1838, Charvet is the world's first and oldest shirtmaker. Charles Baudelaire, Georges Sand, Eduouard Manet, Coco Chanel, Charles De Galle, and John F. Kennedy are among the long list of famous Charvet clients. So there's your history lesson.
I was hooked instantly. The fabric is wonderful, the fit meticulous, the patterns classic without being stodgy. Compared to my other high-end shirts, I've found Charvet shirts are very easy to iron due to the precision and symmetry of the design. I'm a fan of the square shirt tails as well.
You pay for this type of quality. Charvet shirts typically retail for $450. However if you are patient and determined, you can get them much cheaper. I paid around $150 a pop during sales at Neiman Marcus and Saks. I even saw a few at Loehmans for under $100 a few months ago.
If you appreciate quality, you'll love the Charvet shirt. Perhaps the only thing I miss about going to an office is that I got to wear these shirts a lot more!

You'd Better Learn How to Surf...

The real surfers in San Francisco spend the summer waiting for winter. I do the opposite. Got down to what's left of Ocean Beach (El Nino tore apart everything man-made this past winter) for my first session of 2010. The shirtless bros hanging in the parking lot in their Levis reminded me of images from California's surf scene in the 70's.

Was great to get back in the water. Reminded me that fear is a necessary prelude to doing anything worthwhile.

Sartorially speaking, surfing continues to greatly influence fashion. As long as there is some authenticity to it, I think this trend is pretty cool. A new brand that gets it right is Santa Barbara's Riviera Club, whose clothing is inspired by the real-life adventures of SB surfer Bunker Spreckels.

What Was and Will Always Be: REM

If you came of age in the 80's like I did, REM has probably influenced your musical tastes to this day. In 1985 I was mostly listening to British "New Wave" (The Smiths, The Cure, New Order, Echo...). I thought Amercan rock bands sucked. Then I heard Murmur. Even though I could barely make out Michael Stipe's lyrics, the pastoral, gritty, Keroucian images these songs conjured up shot straight through my soul. Geck would probably argue that The Replacements are the quitessential American band of the 80's, but my vote is for the boys from Athens.

Based on the stellar Pithfork reviews, I downloaded the newly remastered editions of Murmur and Reckoning. The remastered (deluxe) versions of these albums are stunning, adding space clarity and depth. As the PF review of Reckoning notes, "(the) expert remastering job cleaned up the album's notoriously murky sonics and revealed previously unheard detail and force." If that weren't enough, both editions contain some fantastic live recordings of a band at the top of its game, proving REM was a very good live band. If you're an REM fan, these remastered gems are a must-have.

Spring/Summer Essential: Canvas Sneakers

Canvas sneakers are an essential for the warmer months. Wear them with jeans or khakis, or if you're Kanye West, with an Armani Suit. I like the John Varvatos Converse Chuck Taylor model ($95) pictured above. Easy to slip on and kick off. Best of all, you can toss them in the washing machine. Grey, blue or white is a good call. There are a ton of options out there for canvas sneakers, and its easy to find them on sale at places like Nordstrom Rack.

Asset Management: Wash Your Face

Most guys seem to rail against the idea of skin care. Too metrosexual or something. But come on, you got one face for this life -take care of it. Wash and moisturize. Here's a couple good options for keeping your mug clean...

Aveeno Active Naturals Ultra-Calming Foaming Cleanser $5.46

Kieh's Facial Fuel Energizing Face Wash $18.00

Where to Shop San Francisco: J.Crew

Yeah that J. Crew... My impression of J. Crew was of an outdated, preppy, mail order catalog, but this brand has reinvented itself under the direction of head designer Frank Muytjens. The new J. Crew is edgier without forsaking its East Coast prep school roots. For the new Men's Shop and Liquor Store, J. Crew has collaborated with iconic brands such as Levis, Belstaff and Thomas Mason. The Fall 2010 Mens's Collection looks fantastic. Paid a visit to the Men's Shop and with the help of the very cool and knowledgeable Lily Lysle (a personal shopper at The Men's Shop) picked up the following items...

Grey Chambray Utility Shirt $98
There is a move back to durable American workwear as evidenced by the resurgence of brands such as Woolrich, Pendleton and the current obsession with raw, selvedge denim. Makes sense that in the midst of a brutal recession, menswear would trend back towards the functional. To my taste, some of this goes a bit far, but this classic chambray workshirt is a winner.

Broken-in Chino in Urban Slimfit $65
Back in my collegiate days, I lived in the J. Crew broken in chinos. These are the same thick but soft cotton chinos, updated with a slim fit. The look seems to be to wear them rolled-up. We'll have to see about that...

Friday I'm in Love

ms. pix was having a rough week. How to make a girl forget her cares for a while? Flowers or a good candle works. But if you want to step your game up, I suggest perfume. Saw the Balenciaga ad in VF featuring the talented and beautiful Charlotte Gainsbourg. Apparently I made a good choice. The next morning I had my latte waiting in the kitchen. The right gift with the right woman comes back to a gentleman in spades...

Balenciaga Eau De Parfum 75ml $130

Down with Denim?

I see so many bad jeans out on the street that I sometimes think Daniel Akst may have been right when he called denim "a powerful force for evil" in the Wall Street Journal. But I do believe denim can be done right if you avoid some common mistakes. Also you shouldn't have to shell out $300 bucks for a pair of good jeans.

What to Avoid

As I see it there are 2 big mistakes guys make when buying jeans. The first is by going for gimmicks such as gaudy embroidery on the back pockets and artificial treatments like extreme washes, rips and "whiskers," Leave this look to the Jersey Shore kids. The other mistake is buying jeans that they feel will not make them stand out in a crowd. Too often this translates to jeans that are ill-fitting and basically make you look like a 10 year old. Worse yet are the pale blue, high-riding, baggy-butt, mommy jeans ala Jerrry Seinfeld and Steve Jobs. Ugh.

My Advice

You would think these mistakes would be easy to avoid with the astonishing amount of jean choices available. But more options don't always lead to better choices. My advice is to buy dark blue jeans (I prefer raw, unwashed denim) that is free of embroidery and other gimmicks. Your jeans should be fitted but not "skinny" (unless you weigh less than 145 pounds, own a skateboard or spend your days drinking Blue Bottle coffee in the Mission). Break them in yourself. Wash sparingly (during the first few months not at all) and hang dry (to maintain the color and fit). Pre-rinsed jeans are fine too - as long as the finish isn't trying too hard to look "broken in."

A couple of good options...

Levi's Made and Crafted "Slim - Rigid" $150

Selvedge denim (more on that another time) that are fitted but by no means skinny. A great dark blue wash.

Naked and Famous Denim "Slim Guy - Broken Twill" $140

Don't let the "Slim Guy" scare you. I'm over 200 pounds and these fit me great. Again, raw Japenese selvedge denim that is imported and manufactured in Vancouver which, Patrick at Barneys explained to me, keeps the cost down (it's usually hard to find selvedge denim below $200).

Iconic Essential: The Lacoste Polo

I've had mixed success with Lacoste Polos. After a few times in the dryer (I typically throw my dress shirts in the dryer on low for about 15 minutes before hanging to dry) they looked about 2 sizes too small. I ended up giving many a crocodile away to my friend Tom who is about 5 inches and 30 pounds smaller. I tried buying a couple sizes too large but this translated to formless, baggy shirts that were not at all flattering. So while I liked the idea of polo shirts and see other guys look great in them, the polo was out of the rotation in my closet. However I dropped into the Lacoste Store the other day and was pleased to find Lacoste's new Red! Slimfit Polo is not only slimmer but longer. I also liked the 2 button look (instead of the customary 3). Bought a size 8 (XXL) which was long enough to wear in or out and was fitted without being snug. Absolutely loved the Tulip Red color that looked rather smart with the Shipley and Halmos black trousers I was wearing. The Lacoste girl told me under no circumstances should it end up in the dryer. Hang dry, then iron. I'm resolved to follow her advice. I'll let you know how it turns out...

Lacoste Red! Slim Fit Pique Polo $79.50

"So Fresh and So Clean"

Spring is in the air. Time to change out your more substantial fall/winter cologne for a scent that is lighter, cleaner but still sophisticated. A couple of my favorites...

D&G Light Blue 2.5 OZ $50

Citrusy with hints of wood. Good option for the daytime.

Voyage d'Hermes 3.3OZ $130

Just sampled this one at Neiman Marcus today. I smelled oranges and wood. Wonderfully subtle. A very cool bottle that is refillable (cheaper when you refill). Your wife/girlfriend will be "borrowing" this one.

Tom Ford Neroli Portofino 1.7OZ $180

Of course it took Tom Ford for me to realize that colognes didn't have to be musky, heavy and well, smell like cologne. I've been wearing the Neroli Portofino which TF's site describes as "an iconic fragrance (that) balances luminous Citrus Oils and floral notes with Amber undertones..." As an added bonus, you can blend any of the Tom Ford scents with one another. Tom Ford - the Bo Jackson of the Fashion & Entertainment world...

Ruling the iPod: Local Natives' Gorilla Manor

About a year ago I rediscovered Talking Heads. Their music is just so funky and strange and ahead of its time. I must not be the only one obsessed with the Heads in 2010. The Dirty Projectors and my favorite band of the moment, Local Natives seem to have sipped from David Byrne's kool-aid cup as well. Pitchfork has a good review of this album (btw Pitchfork through Lala allows you to listen to as much of the album as you want before you purchase - gotta love our instant access/gratifcation world!) Here a live BBC studio version of the very moving "Airplanes."

In Search of the Perfect Brown Wingtip...

I have been scouring Union Square as of late in search of the perfect brown wingtip. This classic shoe an indispensable part of any man's wardrobe. Brown dress shoes go well with both gray and blue suits and are and just more fun than black dress shoes. My criteria for picking the perfect wingtip were 1) Price 2) Quality of build and 3) Versatility (you want a shoe you can dress up or down). Here were the best brown wingtips I found at different pricepoints...

Allen Edmonds Lombard Walnut $285
A stylish wingtip in a very versatile walnut color. Quality build at a good price.

Cole Haan Air Neroli Wingtip $398
A true bench-made Italian shoe that is very comfortable shoe due to Cole Haan's use of Nike Air technology. The Air Neroli is a deep chestnut color which gives it a more serious air than the other options.

Barker Black Archdale Wingtip Antique Chestnut $850
In a time where companies are obsessed with expanding their brand through more and more products (Prada skis - really?) you gotta love a company dedicated to doing one thing and doing it right. Barker Black has been making shoes for 125 years in a factory christened by the Queen herself. Granted nine hundred bucks is a lot to spend on a pair of shoes, but as long as you give them some tlc (namely resoling) these shoes will last you a lifetime. Plus there's a certain feeling of confidence that only a work of art like a Barker Black provides.