I see so many bad jeans out on the street that I sometimes think Daniel Akst may have been right when he called denim "a powerful force for evil" in the Wall Street Journal. But I do believe denim can be done right if you avoid some common mistakes. Also you shouldn't have to shell out $300 bucks for a pair of good jeans.
What to Avoid
As I see it there are 2 big mistakes guys make when buying jeans. The first is by going for gimmicks such as gaudy embroidery on the back pockets and artificial treatments like extreme washes, rips and "whiskers," Leave this look to the Jersey Shore kids. The other mistake is buying jeans that they feel will not make them stand out in a crowd. Too often this translates to jeans that are ill-fitting and basically make you look like a 10 year old. Worse yet are the pale blue, high-riding, baggy-butt, mommy jeans ala Jerrry Seinfeld and Steve Jobs. Ugh.
My Advice
You would think these mistakes would be easy to avoid with the astonishing amount of jean choices available. But more options don't always lead to better choices. My advice is to buy dark blue jeans (I prefer raw, unwashed denim) that is free of embroidery and other gimmicks. Your jeans should be fitted but not "skinny" (unless you weigh less than 145 pounds, own a skateboard or spend your days drinking Blue Bottle coffee in the Mission). Break them in yourself. Wash sparingly (during the first few months not at all) and hang dry (to maintain the color and fit). Pre-rinsed jeans are fine too - as long as the finish isn't trying too hard to look "broken in."
Selvedge denim (more on that another time) that are fitted but by no means skinny. A great dark blue wash.
Don't let the "Slim Guy" scare you. I'm over 200 pounds and these fit me great. Again, raw Japenese selvedge denim that is imported and manufactured in Vancouver which, Patrick at Barneys explained to me, keeps the cost down (it's usually hard to find selvedge denim below $200).
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